You suspect that fresh years might not be the ones that Michel Rolland likes most in Argentina, given his preference for textured, fleshy reds, but he’s done a brilliant job with the 2021 Clos de los Siete. Combining Malbec, 15% Merlot, 13% Syrah, 6% Cabernet Franc, 4% Cabernet Sauvignon and 3% Petit Verdot, it’s a seamless, subtly wooded blend with raspberry, plum, fennel and blackberry flavours, a hint of stony reduction and svelte tannins. 2024-32.